Photography Cheat Sheet
CameraCues & Photography Cheat Sheet Guide
Photography Cheat Sheet
CameraCues Reference Notes

Legend:
Camera modes:
M = Manual
S(Tv) = Shutter Priority
A(Av) = Aperture Priority
P = Program
ISO: for an explanation of ISO refer to Podcast above.
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Macro: Aperture Priority
Macro lenses range from 50mm to 200mm. A 100mm or longer lens is recommended because it provides more working distance, so you don't disturb the subject and makes lighting easier.
Camera modes:
M = Manual
S(Tv) = Shutter Priority
A(Av) = Aperture Priority
P = Program
ISO: for an explanation of ISO refer to Podcast above.
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Macro: Aperture Priority
Macro lenses range from 50mm to 200mm. A 100mm or longer lens is recommended because it provides more working distance, so you don't disturb the subject and makes lighting easier.
Portrait:
Aperture Mode. When using an APS-C camera, choose an 85mm lens or longer for better subject isolation. If you’re photographing a moving subject, refer to the Action CameraCue mode to maintain sharpness. Enabling Auto ISO helps preserve the correct shutter speed—learn more in our podcast, Why Use Auto ISO.
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Architecture:
Program Mode: Most architectural photography is shot handheld, and using Program mode with Auto ISO helps ensure proper exposure and fast enough shutter speeds. When photographing indoors without a tripod, these settings are ideal. If you’re able to use a tripod, refer to the Low Light CameraCue. In high-contrast scenes, such as church interiors with large stained-glass windows, use exposure bracketing to capture detail in both highlights and shadows. For more information on how to bracket your photos, click here.
Aperture Mode. When using an APS-C camera, choose an 85mm lens or longer for better subject isolation. If you’re photographing a moving subject, refer to the Action CameraCue mode to maintain sharpness. Enabling Auto ISO helps preserve the correct shutter speed—learn more in our podcast, Why Use Auto ISO.
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Architecture:
Program Mode: Most architectural photography is shot handheld, and using Program mode with Auto ISO helps ensure proper exposure and fast enough shutter speeds. When photographing indoors without a tripod, these settings are ideal. If you’re able to use a tripod, refer to the Low Light CameraCue. In high-contrast scenes, such as church interiors with large stained-glass windows, use exposure bracketing to capture detail in both highlights and shadows. For more information on how to bracket your photos, click here.
Action:
Shutter Priority Mode:
Shutter speeds slower than the reciprocal of your lens’s focal length can result in blurry images due to camera shake. For example, with a 200mm lens on a full-frame camera, the minimum recommended shutter speed is 1/200 second. When using the same lens on an APS-C camera, you must compensate for the crop factor: 1.5× for Sony, Nikon, Fujifilm, and Pentax, or 1.6× for Canon. This means a 200mm lens requires a minimum shutter speed of approximately 1/320 second to maintain sharpness. [i.e. 200x1.6= 320)
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Birds:
Shutter Priority Mode:
When photographing birds, the more focal length you have, the better, unless you can get extremely close to the birds. Most wildlife photographers use telephoto lenses of 400mm or longer to capture sharp, detailed images.
For a better understanding of using Auto ISO check out our podcast, Why Use Auto ISO.
Shutter Priority Mode:
Shutter speeds slower than the reciprocal of your lens’s focal length can result in blurry images due to camera shake. For example, with a 200mm lens on a full-frame camera, the minimum recommended shutter speed is 1/200 second. When using the same lens on an APS-C camera, you must compensate for the crop factor: 1.5× for Sony, Nikon, Fujifilm, and Pentax, or 1.6× for Canon. This means a 200mm lens requires a minimum shutter speed of approximately 1/320 second to maintain sharpness. [i.e. 200x1.6= 320)
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Birds:
Shutter Priority Mode:
When photographing birds, the more focal length you have, the better, unless you can get extremely close to the birds. Most wildlife photographers use telephoto lenses of 400mm or longer to capture sharp, detailed images.
For a better understanding of using Auto ISO check out our podcast, Why Use Auto ISO.
Low Light:
Manual Mode:
Requires a tripod. For a detailed explanation click here. Short explanation begins at 3:00 Minutes
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Moon:
When photographing the Moon at night, it’s much brighter than the Earth’s landscape. To capture both, use bracketed exposures and combine them with HDR in post process. For a full Moon, standard settings usually work, but if it’s less than half full, increase exposure by up to two stops using ISO, aperture, or shutter speed. Keep shutter speed faster than 1/60 sec to avoid motion blur from the Moon’s movement.
If handholding a lens over 100mm, use a shutter speed at least equal to the reciprocal of your focal length to prevent camera shake. (see a more detailed explanation in the Action CameraCue
Manual Mode:
Requires a tripod. For a detailed explanation click here. Short explanation begins at 3:00 Minutes
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Moon:
When photographing the Moon at night, it’s much brighter than the Earth’s landscape. To capture both, use bracketed exposures and combine them with HDR in post process. For a full Moon, standard settings usually work, but if it’s less than half full, increase exposure by up to two stops using ISO, aperture, or shutter speed. Keep shutter speed faster than 1/60 sec to avoid motion blur from the Moon’s movement.
If handholding a lens over 100mm, use a shutter speed at least equal to the reciprocal of your focal length to prevent camera shake. (see a more detailed explanation in the Action CameraCue
Waterfall:
Shutter Priority Mode:
Capture smooth waterfalls by adjusting your shutter speed to match the flow of water. Longer shutter speeds create a silky, smooth effect. In bright conditions, use a Neutral Density (ND) filter to prevent overexposure. Learn more about ND filters.
Bonus Tip – Wispy Clouds:
Program Mode:
For more information bracketing your photos, click here. for an explanation of ISO refer to Podcast above.
Shutter Priority Mode:
Capture smooth waterfalls by adjusting your shutter speed to match the flow of water. Longer shutter speeds create a silky, smooth effect. In bright conditions, use a Neutral Density (ND) filter to prevent overexposure. Learn more about ND filters.
Bonus Tip – Wispy Clouds:
- If clouds are clearly moving: exposure < 15 seconds.
- If movement is subtle but noticeable: ~30 seconds or more.
- If movement is barely detectable: 2+ minutes for dramatic long-exposure effects.
Program Mode:
For more information bracketing your photos, click here. for an explanation of ISO refer to Podcast above.
CameraCues Reference Notes
Aperture
Aperture (aka "f/stop") is the opening and closing inside your lens.
Wide Aperture
The larger the aperture opening the less depth of field you will have.
f/8 Myth
The F/8 sweet spot myth. Although f/8 is the sweet spot for many lenses it is not for all lenses. You must test to find the sweet spot of your particular lens.
Small Aperture
The smaller the aperture opening the longer the depth of field. Use for when you need a lot of things in focus.
f/4
Large aperture = small F/stop numbers (aka "low f/stop") = more light.
f/22
Small aperture = large F/stop numbers (aka "high f/stop") = less light.
Shutter Speed
Shutter Speed (SS) - the length of time the sensor is left open to gather more or less light.
Long Shutter Speed
The longer the SS the more likely moving objects will be blurry until they disappear completely. You will also see blur from hand shake if you are hand holding.
SS Calculation
Multiply the SS by 2 to gain 2x the amount of light or +1 stop. Divide the SS by 2 to reduce the light by half or -1 stop.
SS Light Affect
The faster the shutter speed the more likely you are to stop action. You must shoot as fast as the action is moving to freeze motion.
1/60 Myth
A shutter speed of 1/60 is ONLY ideal for hand holding if you are shooting with a 50mm lens on a full frame camera or 35mm lens on a cropped sensor. For proper hand held shutter speeds use a minimum of 1/focal length.
Fast Shutter Speed
The longer the time the brighter your image will be. The shorter the time the darker it will be.
ISO
ISO=International Standards Organization This determines how sensitive your sensor is to light
High ISO
The higher the ISO the more likely you are to have a noisy/grainy image. High ISO is also referred to as "fast" ISO
ISO Calculation
Multiply the ISO by 2 to gain 2x the amount of light or +1 stop. Divide the ISO by 2 to reduce the light by half or -1 stop.
Low ISO
The lower (or slower) your ISO the sharper the image and the less sensitive your sensor is to light.
High ISO Affect
Higher ISO = brighter image Lower ISO = darker image
White Balance
White Balance is how your camera sees color or wavelength of light. The following are general white balance settings for most cameras. Because color is subjective there can be variations among manufacturers. If you have a particular lighting environment this may be a better option than Auto White Balance (AWB).
Shade
Shady conditions render images a little bit blue (more than cloudy). This setting will add yellow to the image to neutralize the extra blue.
Cloud
Cloudy conditions render images a little bit blue (more than flash). This setting will add yellow to the image to neutralize the extra blue.
Flash
Flash units tend to produce a bluish light. This setting will add yellow to the image to neutralize the extra blue.
Sun Light
Direct sun light is considered a neutral color. This setting will make images photographed in direct sunlight feel "normal"
Flourescent
There are many different shades of florescent and some cameras will have more than one florescent setting. Mostly florescent is warmer than daylight.
Tungsten
Tungsten (AKA Incandescent) lights render images very very yellow/orange. This setting will add more than 20 points of blue to the image to neutralize the yellow.
Metering Modes
Metering is the system in your camera that measures the light reflecting into the sensor. These are the typical symbols for each type of metering. No matter the mode the meter will return a 18% gray value.
Spot Metering
Spot Metering. Light is measured from a small spot in the frame usually 2-4% of the image area in the center of the frame or focus point.
Center Weighted Metering
Center Weighted Metering. Light is measured from a area in the middle of frame usually 65-75% of the image area in the center of the frame.
Matrix Metering
Matrix or Evaluative Metering. Light is measured from almost the whole image area and averages it.
Front Curtain
Front Curtain (AKA 1st Curtain) flash: the flash will fire at the beginning of the exposure. If photographing a moving taxi with a slow shutter speed it will give the taxi has laser beams.
Rear Curtain
Rear Curtain (AKA 2nd Curtain) flash: the flash will fire at the end of the exposure. If photographing a moving taxi with a slow shutter speed the lights on the taxi will drag behind the vehicle.
Increase/Decrease Light
If you need to increase or decrease light use the formula below. You can also do so by moving your ISO or Aperture (see above)
ND Exposure Calculation
To calculate the proper Shutter Speed (SS) for a Neutral Density Filter, first establish a starting point. 1. Set your aperture to your desired f/stop. 2. Determine the proper SS WITHOUT a filter on the lens. 3. Mount your filter. 4. Multiply the SS per the formulas below.
ND5 Calculation
Adding a ND5 filter to your lens means you will loose 5 stops of light. Take your starting SS and multiply it by 32. Example: Starting: F/16, SS 1" Second ND5: 1x32 = 32 Second exposure time at f/16
ND10 Calculation
Adding a ND10 filter to your lens means you will loose 10 stops of light when. Take your starting SS and multiply it by 1024. Example: Starting: F/16, SS 1" Second ND10: 1x1024 = 1024 Second exposure time (17 minutes 4 seconds)
ND15 Calculation
Adding a ND15 filter means you will loose 15 stops of light. Take your starting SS and multiply it by 16,384. Example: Starting: F/16, SS 1" Second ND15: 1" x 16,384 = 16,384 Second exposure (273 minutes 4 seconds or 4 hours 33 minutes 4 seconds)
ND Focus Hint
Hint: With a ND15 the camera will have a difficult time auto focusing, Be sure to find focus BEFORE mounting your filter. Then change the lens to manual focus so that it does not try to refocus after you mount the filter.